🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.